How to Use Cartier Watch

What should I do if I'm new to Cartier vintage or not? Many people think that.

So I made an archive collection of manuals at that time.

I'm going to introduce Santos Galve and Santos Octagon, but basically the same applies to mast tanks and other watches (if there is no date, the date operation method does not matter).

However, please be careful because dress watches such as mast tanks are weak in terms of water resistance.

If you look at this, you don't have to worry about how to operate it.

Quartz model basically, once the time is set, I think that you will not touch the crown after that.

Because it is battery operated, it will continue to move until the battery runs out.

After overhauling the battery several times every 2-3 years, if the battery does not work even if you change the battery at a certain timing, overhaul is necessary.

It can be used again by overhauling the quartz movement (disassembly / inspection / cleaning of parts, replacement / assembly / lubrication) or replacement of the movement.

Both the Japanese and English manuals say "3 ATM water resistant", but since this is the description at the time of sale, let's think of it as non-water resistant in the present age, which is several decades old. ..

"Waterproofing of Santos Octagon, Santos Galve Santos series"

Although it is waterproof in daily life, please be careful about water as much as possible.

It is important not to remove or use it when washing or when it rains heavily. Please be careful not to get the water splashing when you wash your hands.

Speaking of caution, it is safer not to use it even during strenuous exercise. Also, don't stick it to your computer or smartphone.

This is said to be magnetic and causes the clock time to go wrong.

Let's take a look at Santos

As mentioned in the above explanation, the finish of the Santos (Galve) bezel, case, and breath has been changed.

What is called a plain mirror finish (mirror finish) and a satin finish with streaks.

I think this photo is easy to understand. The bezel part (shining like a mirror) and the part with vertical lines on the case and bracelet (other than the screw) are different.

The breath has a mirror finish only on the surface of the screw and the rest is streaked, which makes the craftsman cry.

To put it the other way around, it is Jeweler's Cartier that is particular about the design of these small details.

It may be good to know that this slight difference in design will change significantly when viewed in total.

From the description of the Quartz model of Santos Galve. Quartz models basically display the date at the "6 o'clock" position.

A movement with a date is an operation method called two-step pulling.

This means that you can pull two steps from the closed crown.

・ You can quickly change the date by pulling one step.

・ You can set the time by pulling two steps.

"Points to watch out for"

The same applies to the Santos Octagon introduced at the beginning, but set the hands of the watch to the "3 o'clock" position before performing "fast forward date" by pulling the crown one step.

For some reason, it is not written in the Japanese manual. It is described in the English version that will be introduced later, but the clock with date gradually starts from a few hours before "24 o'clock". The mechanism is such that the gears mesh with each other to change the date display (advance one day).

If you try to change only the date part by force, the parts of the movement will be broken, so it is troublesome before fast-forwarding the date.

・ Pull the crown two steps and turn the long hand (long hand) around to proceed.

・ Turn the minute hand and stop at the "3 o'clock" position

Do this before fast-forwarding the date.

The same applies to the self-winding model. However, since it is a completely mechanical watch, the hands will stop when the mainspring is unraveled.

As stated in the above explanation, it will last for 36 hours from the state where the mainspring is fully wound (the state where the battery is fully charged).

This is just a guide, and I think it's a little shorter. In the case of this watch, it is often heard that it works for 36 hours, which is called "power reserve".

Normally, you don't stay still for 36 hours, so when you walk, the mainspring winds up (this is called automatic winding. There is a weight inside, and it winds up when it moves. It means that it can be used without stopping.

However, if you take it off on weekends and put on another watch and it doesn't move at all, it should be stopped.

At that time, turn the crown several times clockwise in the state of position 1 in the above figure to start moving. (This is called manual winding)

The contents of the manual differ depending on the age. The written content is the same, though.

About Santos Galve Moon Phase.

Written in English, but what is written is a little different from the one I saw earlier in Santos Garve

Returning to the story, there is a note in Japanese that says "IMPORTANT:", and when fast-forwarding the date, set the hand to the "3 o'clock" position. There is none.

The difference between the Santos Galve moon phase is that the short hand and the long hand are the same, but the other hand shows the date (date) instead of the second hand.

And the way to change this date part is a little different.

The part called "A" in the previous manual. You can see the part marked with "A" by looking at the picture below.

Do you know that there is a place where you can press a button just below the crown (at the base of the crown guard)?

Press this to advance the date hand, which has an umbrella-shaped tip. If you press it once, it will advance for one day.

The moon phase part cannot be changed independently. However, according to the manual, it is adjusted by Cartier, so no adjustment is necessary, so let's believe it.

The moon phase model has a unique design, isn't it? If you have a moon phase in Santos Galve, it will be extremely reduced, so it is recommended for those who do not want to wear it even in Santos Galve.

Finally, about adjusting the bracelet.

I think it's best to take the adjustment of the stainless steel bracelet to a Cartier vintage watch store or Cartier's boutique.

In some cases, it is easy to take a frame, and in other cases, the screw part cannot be easily turned.

As a supplement to breath, if it runs out, please contact a professional craftsman as it can be repaired cleanly ~

What are the "two adjustment holes in the clasp of the folding buckle" written in the instruction manual? You should have thought, but it is the part of the above picture.

You can make fine adjustments in this part. This is easy to do, so if you are confident that you will not hurt yourself, it is okay if you remove the stick with a thin tip, adjust it, and put it on again.

The basic operation is the same not only for the Santos model but also for the mast tank. The operation method is the same as the method introduced above, with only a slight change depending on the machine called the movement.

It's not that difficult, so once you understand it, it's okay. However, don't forget to pull the crown back to its original position at the end.

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